Since I don’t leave well enough alone, I thought I would change it for something with some “smarts”, and something that would charge the starting battery when the house battery is being charged. As a bonus, I get the ability to use the house battery to start the van if the starting battery dies.

So I replaced the silver can that looks like something from a Ford truck made in 1930 with a sealed black box from Victron - the specific model is: Cyrix-ct 12/24-120.

Here is the solenoid, mounted on the firewall:

I just had to change some wires from the battery, as well as replace a broken circuit breaker (which broke when I tried to loosen the connecting bolt) - not a difficult install, if you have the crimping tools.

Here is the Cyrix-Ct installed:

Here is the Winnebago wiring diagram:

Here is the wiring of the Cyrix-Ct:

Note: it seems that Winnebago uses a #10 wire to the solenoid, then the rest of the run is #8, and the circuit breakers are 40 amp - which is the correct amperage for #8 wire (breakers and fuses are designed to protect wires). I just removed that #10 wire (which is utterly bizarre that it is not #8) when I rewired it. Just another “WTF?” Winnebago moment.

I would NOT suggest adding the Hoodliner product (link below) to the belly pan. If you have the slightest gap in sealing the edge of it, any liquid (from cleaning, leak, etc) will be trapped in the foam - not cool.

The belly pan (the Bentley manual calls this a “sound dampening pan”) on the EuroVan protects the engine from road debris, and provides an element of quieting for the cab. There is a layer of foam on the inside of the pan that looks like an inch thick carpet padding - the Bentley manual calls it “dampening material”. Mine was oil soaked and filthy, with some chunks torn out from a rat or something - it needed to go. I was just not going to put in some new carpet padding, I wanted something easier to clean and maintain. I am extremely happy with how this turned out, as the cab is much quieter, and the belly pan looks very nice on the inside.

In my search to replace the sound dampening material, I came across Hoodliner, which provided me with what I was looking for (I hoped) - an easy to clean surface, one which would help me notice any drips or leaks, but with some sound absorption. The recommendation from the manufacturer is to use DynaMat Extreme under this, which made sense to me, as the DynaMat dampens the large, drum-like belly pan. If you tap on my insulated (dampened) belly pan, it sounds like tapping on a brick - not a metal sound at all.

If you don’t have a belly pan (removed by a shop and never replaced is a common occurrence), The Bus Depot lists one for sale (as of February, 2022) - VW Part # 7D0805685L. The one they list is plastic, which might not need any sound dampening material.

Here is what the belly pan looked like out of the van:

Here is what I chose to use: DynaMat Extreme, DynaMat Hoodliner, and some DynaTape. I had a small roller, but if you don’t have one, DynaMat sells one - it is very handy to apply the DynaMat. I got one of the DynaMat “Door Kits”, which had 4 sheets 12" x 36" - I had plenty left over.

I looked up in the Bentley manual and saw that I was missing some of the insulation on the passenger side, so I took that into consideration when I applied the new material. I made a cardboard template, using the old foam as a guide - this template was used to cut the Hoodliner (which comes in one sheet).

It is extremely important to have a clean surface to mount the DynaMat - I used GooGone, followed by a quick wipe of acetone. Here the belly pan is with the DynaMat Extreme applied (this is where a roller comes in handy):

Here it is with the Hoodliner applied on top of the DynaMat, with the edges sealed with DynaTape:

The belly pan is not much heavier than with the oil soaked foam, but it really quiets the road and engine noise. Very glad I did this!

Got out my handy cutting tool:

and cut away!

There is quite a bit of room back there, but the trick is that the wall is curved AND tapers towards the back - so you just can’t make a rectangular box and call it a day (never said this was easy!). So I started with some cardboard templates:

Then moved to a rough plywood mockup:

You also need to add a bit of backing material, as the wall is not all that strong, and since it will curve a bit, you need to “pinch” it between the box and backing plate. I just used double stick tape to hold it there. You also need a spacer to capture a screw.

Here are a bunch of measurements for the box that I built. The box is 1/4 birch plywood, glued together.

Here it is installed - with a thin mattress, and our usual super comfy mattress setup. Room for a few beers, battery candles, books, etc:

As usual, your mileage may vary - this is how it was on my 95 - your van may be different!

I ordered a new bracket and bolts from GoWesty, but they are no longer for sale - and the part is discontinued. So junkyard time!

Here is the new bracket, compared to the stock bracket - you can see the curve is more “generous” on the new bracket:

Here is the height of the 15 tire, and the 16 inch tire. There is almost 1.5 inches difference in the height of the tire.

Here is the room under the van to FIT the wheel/tire - the 16 inch would just NOT FIT!

So I used a multi-tool to cut away the bracket on the driver’s side:

I painted the cut edge, then used some edging to protect the tire from the cut area:

Here is the clearance with the 16 inch:

Here is the completed job - 16 inch hangs no lower than the 15 inch now!

The 12 volt battery we had (Trojan 30 XHS) provided 130 amp/hours - the 6 volt (Trojan T-105) provides 225 amp/hours. More power in almost the same space - how cool is that?

This required removing the existing battery box, installing a new box (after modifying the box with parts from the old box, as well as latches and seals), installing a smaller box for the battery disconnect switch, and while I was at it, installing a new battery meter.

Parts required (follow the links for more info):

• battery box for 2 batteries
• screws
• small latches
• seal - left over foam from my dash repair
• external box for disconnect and fuses
• panel for inside of external box
• battery cable for joining batteries
• battery cables - 2 - for positive and negative
• battery mat (optional)

Steps:

• Remove the battery
• Remove the battery box
• Save the circuit breaker on the outside of the battery box
• Cut out the vent connection from the old box (unless you want to save the box, in that case you need to design a connection for the vent)
• Prep the new box - add seals for the top, the unused holes, and attach the latches for the top
• Locate the new box, leaving room to operate the latches
• Drill the drain hole
• Screw the box in place
• Mount the external box for the disconnect switch, screwing from the inside of the new battery box
• Drop in the batteries and wire it all up!

How I Did It

Be careful, the battery weigh a TON! Disconnect the leads to the battery, noting that Winnebago uses “house” wiring colors to indicate positive and negative. You may wish to label the wires in a manner that is clear to you. Note which wire is connected to the chassis - this is the negative wire.

Here is the old box, without the battery:

The existing battery is strapped in place with bolts that go through the battery box and floor of the van. My method does not secure the battery in this manner, but relies on multiple screws, and the battery box itself. I am comfortable with that - you may not be.

I cut the existing box up, reusing part of the box for the vent and the drain:

Save the fusible link, mounted on the side of the box - you will need it later:

You will need to enlarge some holes in the box, seal the unused ones up, mount the vent connector from the old box, and mount the drain “pipe” in the floor of the van, as well. I used some leftover adhesive foam from my dash project to seal up the unused openings in the box - if you don’t have that, you could use gaffer tape or duct tape.

I used rivets to attach the vent connector and latches.

Add some latches and put some foam in place to seal the lid:

Screw the box into place (I used stainless steel self-drilling screws), making sure to test the clearance for operating the latches:

Cover the heads of the screws with silicone for some protection - I also cut a “battery mat” to fit in the bottom of the box, with an opening for the drain.

I added a small box to the front of the battery box to house the disconnect switch, fusible link, and other fuses:

Here it is, when viewed through the back “hatch” (see this post on how to install one of these)

Now if you thought the 12 volt battery was heavy, wait until you drop the 6 volts ones in! But man, look at all that power!

Here it is, all wrapped up!

Unfortunately, I was missing a crucial bit of information - the heater is “on” all the time, and the only thing that prevents all that heat from filling the cab is the “blender box”, with its mechanism of PERFORATED flaps, which are supposed to be covered in foam, now disintegrated. After a miserably hot trip to the desert one June, where the cab temperature was unbearable, even with the air conditioning on full (competing with unregulated heater), I knew I had to fix this.

There is a great series of YouTube videos from Thomas about removing the dash - if that link doesn’t work, just search YouTube for “T4 Dash Removal” - I found it very helpful to watch them, to get an idea of what I was in for. This is not a quick project, or a simple one - but once done, you should not have to do it again!

One thing that makes it easier is to remove the front seats. Just 4 bolts on each seat in the 95 EVC!

While I was in there, I replaced the heater core, fan, fan control resistor pack, ignition switch (easier with the steering wheel off) - all from Europarts-SD, as well as replaced my worn out steering wheel (too squishy!) with a good condition used one from The Samba classifieds, wrapped in a leather Wheelskin cover from Eurocampers, and new cigarette lighter from GoWesty (easier with the dash out).

I had read about different materials that other’s had used as a replacement for the foam - thin aluminum “flue” tape, duct tape, craft foam, etc. - I felt that all those materials had certain drawbacks. A material and adhesive is needed that can stand up to heat (in the 200 degree range), is flexible (to seal well and prevent “whistling” as the fan blows air past it), and is easy to apply. I chose to use a high temperature silicone foam. McMaster-Carr to the rescue!

Materials Used:

• (3) 12x12 inch sheets silicone foam with adhesive - 1059N368 - soft
• (1) 12x12 inch sheet silicone foam w/o adhesive (for the vent flaps in 95 ONLY) - 1059N358 - soft
• 15 feet of 1/2 inch wide silicone foam for the blender box and other seals (use for the dashboard on 97 and up - and you can use this for the 95, as well, if you like) - 93415K61
• 15 feet if 3/4 inch wide silicone foam for the dashboard (OPTIONAL - this is the size that was on my 95 - you can just use 1/2 and save some $) - 93415K63

I am not going to get into the details of removing the dash, freeing the blender box, etc - the YouTube videos do a good job of covering that. Take LOTS of photos, so you know how it goes back together, label all vacuum lines and wires, and have lots of patience.

I will share some photos of the “upgraded” blender box, and some additional notes. Many of these shots will make no sense until you have your dash apart.

Here is a shot of the dashboard removed - the blender box is right in the middle:

Here is the blender box, removed from the van - the metal flap is perforated to lighten it, but it is SUPPOSED to have a foam covering!

Here is another angle (the inlet side of the blender box), showing some of the old foam, and how it covers the holes:

Here is how it looks when completed:

Use paper for templates, trace the shapes on the foam, and cut with scissors:

It is IN this box that the heater core is mounted - it fits into the rectangle opening  - the flaps are what regulate the heat.

Here is a shot of one of the dash vents, with the old foam, and the new foam:

I also replaced the foam on the flap that is behind the fan - the fresh/recirculating flap. The foam was in pretty good shape here, but I did not want to have to go back in at a later date.

Some of the foam sheets were used on the dash - I just matched what was there - these pieces are there to prevent rattling of the ducts:

When I reinstalled the dash, I found that there was quite a gap between the blender box and the defrost vent area of the dash - I believe the factory used large amounts of foam to fill that gap. I figured I could do better by adjusting the plastic piece connected to the blender box, as well as applying some additional foam.

First, the additional layer of foam:

Then the adjustment:

Filled that old screw hole with leftover foam sheet:

Here is the tight seal - the defrost has never worked so good:

View from the back:

My method for holding the platform in place:

The platform is hinged in such a way as to form a seat (from before we had a drawer):

View with platform removed (looking towards the back of the van):

We have a drawer under the bed that is also used to support the front edge of the platform:

Small pieces of wood “flip up” to prevent the drawer from sliding back:

Pins, set in brass bushings, are used to hold the seat closed, as well as hold the platform in the “upright” position:

Countersunk bolts are used to connect the “box” to the floor:

I removed the metal plate that was used to support the bench seat and replaced it with a piece of plywood with brass inserts - I have heard of others keeping the metal plate in place, and sliding the box into the angle pieces on this plate - that is a pretty slick idea!

We mocked up a “mini” table out of plywood before our desert trip to see if this idea would work - it was such a success, I now need to make one out of maple. Our “big” table is also out of maple (much nicer than laminate!).

It is the perfect size for our Moka pot, Dosacaffe, and 2 cups.

I used the support from the table we do not use - it slips into the track just like the full size table.

To store it, I added the “broom clip” from the other table - we just clip the mini table to the leg of the full size table - like so:

We now have a drawer that is 14 inches deep, as well as almost double the storage area for food.

As with every modification we have made (except the MaxxFan roof vent, this is a “non-destructive” modification - the stock parts can be put back in - no damage done!

Here is how we did this, as well as things to consider if you want to do this yourself:

I removed the existing drawer and door, as well as the metal frame - and saved the 4 “L” brackets for the new cabinet. The thermostat wires run through the metal frame, so you will need to disconnect the thermostat and pull the thermostat wires out (make sure to disconnect your house battery first!). When you install the new side, you need to make some provision for the wires (I routed a groove in the backside of the right side).

There is “T” molding on both sides of the cabinet - in order to allow the right side of the cabinet to not run into the molding, I applied one side of some Velcro to the inside surface of the wall that the thermostat mounts to - not only do you get clearance, but the new cabinet does not rub on the existing laminated surface. This is a technique I used throughout the van - placing one side of Velcro between metal and wood, plastic and wood, etc.

Since the new cabinet “sticks out” past the existing “top”, we used this as an excuse to build a shelf (out of a piece of maple) that runs from the top of the cabinet, over the sink and stove, all the way to the end of the poptop opening:

This shelf is a great improvement - when the top is up, you have all kinds of room for glasses, phones, water, etc. Yes, there is Velcro where that shelf rests on the metal!

The food cabinet is made of solid birch, with 2 piece sidewalls - the first 7 inches of each wall is birch, the last part is birch plywood, cut to the shape of the outside wall of the van - Deborah made a pattern of each sidewall, as each side is different - the van sides “taper” slightly. The plywood is screwed to the van, and aluminum “L” metal is used to join the 2 piece sidewalls, as well as support the upper and lower shelf. I added a lip to the front of the middle shelf. The bottom shelf is attached with Velcro, for easy access to the drawer for service, etc.

The salvaged “L” brackets are used to support cross pieces that go above and below the doors.

Added a LED light fixture that fits behind the top cross piece, too.

The handles are from Timber Bronze - and yes, the drawer handle does stick out kinda far - I will be recessing that in the future.

Here is a detail of how I supported the “front” edge of the shelf:

Here is what we do to make sure the stove sends the heat past the shelf:

Like so:

We finally splurged on a Fiamma awning, as well as a ShadyBoy awning for the fridge side of the van (driver’s side) - see my earlier posts here, here, and here on the installation of these awnings. Our goal was to get an awning that was easy to use, as well as an awning that would shade the fridge side of the van and expand the living space (so we could chase the shade, depending on the time of day).

The main difference between these awnings is that the Carefree and the Shady Boy are “manual” awnings - there is a case that mounts to the van that the awning is stored in and connected to - you need to take the awning out of the case and extend it to it’s full length, extend the legs, etc. The Fiamma awning is a “crank out” awning - you just turn a crank and the awning extends out of the case, then you lower the legs.

After using these awnings just about every day for a month, I have some observations and opinions about each awning.

SHORT VERSION: Buy a 10 foot Fiamma**.** (that’s a period)

LONG VERSION: If you have existing Carefree brackets, or wish maximum shade, get a 10 foot Fiamma. If you have a “standard” EuroVan (the EVC is 1.5 feet longer than the “standard” EuroVan), or have no awning brackets on the van and want an awning with less “presence”, get an 8 foot Fiamma. If you have an existing Carefree awning, most likely your brackets are mounted too far apart to install the 8 foot Fiamma.

Pros and Cons of each awning:

Carefree Pros:

• Cheap (it probably came with your van)
• It says “EuroVan” on it (if you are into that kind of thing)

Carefree Cons:

• Awning must be rolled out to full extension to use
• Awning legs must have solid surface to rest on (cannot connect to van)
• Difficult to get out of case
• Difficult to get into case
• Easier with 2 people to setup (almost required)
• May ruin your marriage

ShadyBoy Pros:

• Inexpensive
• Compact and light case
• Cleverly designed (if you like that kind of thing)
• Optional highly reflective fabric creates a very cool area under the awning
• Easy 1 person install
• People will ask you questions about it every time you set it up (might meet some nice people!)

ShadyBoy Cons:

• Flimsy fabric
• Fussy setup - if you like tents, with all their poles and such, then you will LOVE the ShadyBoy
• Can only be used in a fully extended position
• Awning legs must have solid surface to rest on (cannot connect to van)
• Fairly sensitive to wind
• People will ask you questions about it every time you set it up (might meet some real bozos!)

Fiamma Pros:

• Easy setup (turn crank, drop legs, done)
• Rugged
• Huge
• Can be used without extending to full length
• Legs can mount to van (for added strength in wind, etc)
• Easy takedown
• 1 person operation

Fiamma Cons:

• Expensive
• Huge

Further notes:

**Carefree: **Nothing more to say, I am done talking about it - glad it is off the van.

ShadyBoy: I really wanted to like this awning, I really did - it is a really neat “piece of kit”, cleverly designed, compact, lightweight. It really is fussy to set up though, and pretty flimsy. Here is how a setup goes (you can also Google for a YouTube video on this):

1. Open case (2 snaps)
2. Remove poles (2 snaps)
3. Find place to put poles (glad I added a rack to my StowAway2 rear cargo box)
4. Unfurl fabric (hope it’s not windy!)
5. Layout all the poles, trying to remember which one goes where (or label them, as I have seen others do)
6. Insert poles into fabric without tearing fabric (is it still windy?)
7. Install string line from awning to van and tighten
8. Install poles to ground
9. Tighten string again
10. Now where did the little bags that the poles came in go to? (was it windy?)
11. Have a cold one - you deserve it!

We ended up rarely using this awning - again, too much hassle - not like the Carefree, but not nearly as easy as the Fiamma

Fiamma: This thing is HUGE! I mean GINORMOUS! You should see the size of the shipping tube - you need a Sawzall to cut the darn thing up. One person can mount this, if you don’t mind seeing stars as you struggle with it (glad the son-in-law came by during mounting attempt round 2…) - did I mention it was HUGE? Once you have it on your van though, it is dreamy - turn crank, drop legs, done - really, that’s it. Mount the legs onto your van, clip in the center rafter (which you can velcro right inside your van for storage), and the darn thing can handle some serious wind. Did I mention it is HUGE? If you like shade, get one - you won’t be sorry!

The placement of these brackets is not “spelled out” anywhere - here is what I found worked best for me.

I placed the brackets the same distance below the “crease” in the side of the van. I placed the front bracket close to the sliding door opening, so that the passenger door could be opened with the awning deployed.

It is a very close fit:

For the rear, the location was dependent on 2 things - missing a seam created by the taillight housing (only noticeable from the inside), and not too far away from that seam, to take advantage of the stiffer panel near the seam.

Here are some shots of the legs in place:

So I finally replaced it with a Fiamma awning that just cranks out - thanks GoWesty, for the Leap Day sale! - and can go out to any length, with legs that can connect to the van - not just to the ground. Mounted it on the existing Carefree brackets - piece of cake (or pie, if that is your preference).

I just had to drill another hole in the Fiamma bracket (that came with the awning), and I put some silicone between the Carefree and Fiamma bracket.

Note - this photo shows the FRONT bracket, with the mounting screws REVERSED

The Fiamma has a notch in the back of the case that the bracket drops down on to, and you just drill a small hole in the bottom of the case to secure it. The awning sticks out less than a foot from the end of each existing bracket.

Make sure that you do not mount the awning too far “rearward” - you do not want it hitting the rear hatch.

I will have some more details about this awning’s operation in another post.

There is a YouTube video online showing how a Shady Boy is set up - not the best video, but it helped me figure out how to set it up.

Installation is pretty easy, once you understand some important considerations about locating the mounting brackets. You will need to feel comfortable drilling into the roof of your van, and you need some additional supplies.

The awning arrived well packed, with all recyclable cardboard packing materials (nice!) and very compact. Inside the awning case are the brackets, mounting hardware, and poles.

First step is to remove the brackets and poles from the case - keep the poles in a safe place for when you finally try out the awning.

I used a 3M adhesive vinyl product on the back of the stainless steel mounting brackets, and on the van where the brackets mount. Whatever you do, put something on the back of the brackets while you check their location and alignment on the van to prevent scratching the van.

The idea is that the mounting brackets are attached under the pop top - so you need to make sure that you do not mount them too “high” on the van, or the pop top will not close. I slid each bracket under the pop top, leaving plenty of room for the pop top seal. I marked the bottom of each bracket with blue tape. Make sure you do this will each bracket, in approximately the location you plan to mount the awning - the EuroVan roof has a slight curve to it, but the pop top does not!

Next step is to pop the top of the van, mount the brackets to the awning case, and mark the location of the mounting holes on the roof. Make sure you have the brackets attached to the case - that way, the holes you drill will be perfectly lined up.

Use a measuring tool to make sure that the bracket is located the SAME distance from the seam on the roof:

Center punch and drill 1/8 inch pilot holes first, then follow up with the drill size in the instructions (I found that a 5/32 bit worked easier that the 9/64 size in the instructions). Wolfgang has included a sheet metal screw to act as a “tap” for the stainless steel mounting screws - nice touch. I used a deburring tool to clean up the holes:

You may want to place some kind of material between the mounting brackets and the van - I used a clear vinyl product from 3M, but you could use whatever suits your fancy or nothing at all.

Use some silicone on the screws, and mount the brackets - I replaced the supplied screws with stainless steel round head phillips - made it more “sleek”:

Again, make sure you do not mount the brackets too “high” on the van - you need to leave room for the pop top.

Go watch the video on setting it up, and enjoy!

If you are wondering why this is mounted on the drivers side - the ShadyBoy is our “second” awning - the idea is to expand the shaded living area and create some shade on the fridge side of the van while traveling in hot climates.

There will not be a bunch of step by step photos - this job is messy, requires you to lie on a creeper (or similar), and I was doing this in the winter - so I was not going to hang around my unheated carport, taking photos. I have some photos -  just no “step by step” shots.

Here is the overview of the steps:

• Disconnect the propane line
• Unbolt and lower the tank
• Remove the regulator and hoses
• Empty the tank
• Replace the valve
• Repaint the tank
• Replace the regulator and hoses
• Reinstall

I should have done this when I first got the van - lots of dirt and crud under there, and the tank has really needed to be repainted.

You will need to get your van up on ramps, or use your Lynx Levelers or something safe to give you some more working room.

The propane tank is supported by 4 bolts, threaded “up” into 2 large metal brackets that have nuts welded on them, which, in turn, are held in place by very long bolts - one set in the cabinet just aft of the fridge, the other set under the fridge.

In order to lower the tank, you need to remove the rear tank mounting bracket, as well - this bracket holds the regulator, whose mounting bolts are not only impossible to get to with the tank in place, but some of which PREVENT you from lowering the tank - frustrating, to say the least (and it sure did not go back that way!).

After spraying all the mounting bolts for the tank with Kroil, a 9/16 inch, six point socket on a 3/4 inch drive was able to break them all free. Then I supported the tank with a jack and few pieces of wood, removed the bolts, and lowered the tank.

To empty the tank, connect a weed burner to the service valve and go burn some weeds - or something like this blurry photo: a few hours later, the tank should be empty!

An odd thing about parts for propane tanks - you can’t just go to the store and pick a new one up - you need to buy one from a propane service center or supplier. I was able to go to my local Suburban Propane place and have them order up a new valve. In my case, the valve that would work is a Rego 901C5 (if you don’t want the excess flow feature - which closes if there is a sudden rush of propane - you can get the Rego 901C1). It took them 2 days to get the part and install it for me - total cost was under $40.

I ordered a new regulator and hoses from Eurocampers and replaced the old regulator and hoses.

When I got the tank back, I cleaned it up, roughed it up with a green “scrubber”, and painted it with Hammerite - hammered finish, silver gray - looks nice, and is as smooth as glass. Let the paint cure, then mounted it up!

After reading a few posts on the eurovanupdate list about “short cycling” thermostats, I replaced our original Honeywell thermostat with a new Suburban thermostat. Here is our original thermostat:

You need to cut the connectors off the wires to the existing thermostat in order to remove the existing thermostat and mount the new one - make sure your house battery is disconnected!

Slide the wires through the backing plate of the new thermostat, crimp on some new connectors, screw them down, reconnect your house battery and try it out!

I ended up with the top screw hole from the old thermostat showing - you can barely see it. The off/on temperature control is on the top, not the bottom, but I think I can live with that - I like the look of the old thermostat better, but I think I can live with that, too.

BIG DIFFERENCE! Now the furnace does not cycle nearly as often. Easy swap out, sub $20 part at PDX RV LLC.

You can see the instruction sheet, roll of velcro, stuff sack, and the Fancher business card (I love little touches like that…)

The whole things fits into an included stuff sack, about the size of a pillow case:

The insulation is a nice cream color on the inside face, and a very weatherproof looking gray on the outside. Fancher’s claims an insulation value of R-8 for the fabric, which consists of five layers - I can tell you it is very high quality fabric. The workmanship is impeccable - take a look:

Now on to the installation!

Installation is very easy - the insulation fastens with velcro, and strips of 2 inch wide velcro are provided, as well as instructions on where and how the velcro should be installed. The pieces they provided are not labeled, but I used a little common sense and figured it out:

The velcro mounts between the pop top canvas and the pop top, under the aluminum strip that holds the pop top in place. I marked out the screw locations (just for alignment purposes), then used a pencil to mark a horizontal line in the middle of the velcro - to make sure I would have at least 1 inch of velcro sticking out. I removed just the screws needed for each piece, working with one piece at a time, slipping the velcro between the canvas and the pop top, “fuzzy side” UP, then replaced the screws, piercing the velcro, and tightening the aluminum strip.

TIP - lower your pop top slightly when removing the screws that hold the pop top in place - that way, the fabric will not be under any tension.

After I installed the velcro, I made sure to clean up the roof below the pop top, to collect any metal shavings and dirt (didn’t want to get the new insulation dirty!). To install the insulation, just fold down the velcro mounted on the pop top (it acts like a tab), and slide the insulation right up to it - VOILA!:

The front panel rolls up to allow for access to the storage above the cab.

If you want to get really fancy, you can line up all the horizontal stitches - the workmanship is that good (see below!):

On the Fancher’s website, the insulation is shown going BEHIND the pop top hinges - since the insulation is “roomy”, I chose to go “IN FRONT” of the hinges, attaching 11 3/4 inches of 1 inch wide black industrial velcro to the hinge face, like so:

If you camp in the cold, you really should get this for your EVC - come one, you KNOW you deserve it!

In the Camper, there is a “converter” - it’s job is to supply 12 volts to the furnace, power to 12 volt outlets, and to charge the house battery when connected to AC (“shore power”). The stock converter is a MagneTek - a HUGE unit that provides very “dirty” (unregulated) 12 volts, as well as poor performance as a battery charger.

I chose an Progressive Dynamics Intelli-Power model PD 9245C from Best Converter. It has a remote “pendant” for controlling the state of the charger (boost, normal, storage), which is easy to mount on the electrical panel.

You will need some 1/8 inch thick by 3/4 or 1 inch wide copper or aluminum bar stock (non-anodized - the anodized coating on aluminum is not a good conductor of electricity), hacksaw, drill, patience, an afternoon, and your favorite libation (for consumption when you are done).

Disconnect your house battery and shore power and shutoff your propane before starting!

To install, you need to remove the back seat, the two plastic shrouds over the furnace ducts and the water fill area, and your furnace (really easy - disconnect propane, unplug electrical, open front cover, remove two screws, slide out) - so you end up with this (sorry, did not take photos of the stuff coming out - this shows the new converter):

You could do this without removing all this, but it is really nice to have the room, and while you are in there you can replace all your driver side taillights! (use ORIGINAL Honda ones - very good quality! - single filament part # 34903-SF1-A01, dual filament part # 34906-SL0-A01)

Once you have the furnace out, remove the front bracket that the furnace was screwed to - notice that the mounting holes for the furnace are in the front of this bracket - you will need to remember this when you put it back!

Now you have LOTS of room - notice how the MagneTek looks like a piece of WWII surplus gear? If yours is still working, you can use it to create a test power source for your Norcold bench test rig (upcoming project…).

IMPORTANT! All the wiring in the “house” part of your van follows the same color codes as your home - black is HOT, green is ground, etc.

Unscrew the front cover to the MagneTek and undo the 3 wire nuts that connect the MagneTek to your house wiring (umm… guys, wire nuts are NOT for use in vehicles… jeez…). If you read the panel of the MagneTek, you will see that there are 2 hot outputs and a ground - one hot is “filtered” (poorly) and one is not. The “filtered” lead is the smaller one, and it supplies current to the 12 volt outlet near the fridge and other locations.

You will notice that the Intelli-Power has only 2 terminals - you DO NOT need the filtered wire, as the output of the new converter is already filtered.

SAFETY NOTE: Fuses protect WIRES, not what the wires connect to - a device may (or may not) have internal fuses or other means to protect itself. If you connect a small wire to a large fuse, the wire could heat up from excess current, possibly causing a fire - long before the fuse would fail. So make sure that you don’t use the filtered wire - it is only a #10 wire, and a #8 wire should be used with the converter.

So what you need to do is remove the small “filtered” wire, and extend the aluminum buss bar so that all the 12 volt circuit breakers are connected- like so:

BEFORE:

AFTER:

You should end up with a #8 wire going from the Intelli-Power to the isolated stud, and another #8 wire from the isolated stud to the new buss bar.

Here is a diagram of the new wiring:

Next change - the MagneTek has a right angle plug - the Intelli-Power does not. My solution was to change the mounting position of the outlet this connects to by putting the outlet on the INSIDE of the mounting bracket:

Screw the Intelli-Power to the floor - also, screw in the old screws from the MagneTek to plug the unused holes - TIP: use some silicone around the screws to seal them up and minimize corrosion.

Also, check the tightness of the connections on the isolated stud that holds all the hot wires to the battery (remember, black is HOT when working in the “house” part of your van):

As a side note, on my model of EuroVan, the line to the rear sprayer runs under the converter. We have never used our rear sprayer in almost 10 years, and I don’t like mixing electricity and water, so I removed the rear sprayer “T” connection to make it more tidy back there.

When you connect the wires to the Intelli-Power - do not over tighten the terminals. You also want to wiggle the stranded wires after you think it is tight enough, and tighten again. There is an inch pound torque value listed on the Intelli-Power - you will want to follow that.

Make sure to test this BEFORE you put all the bits and pieces back together - maybe even run it for a few hours while you enjoy your tasty beverage, and put the pieces back on the next day! Check the voltage at one of the 12 volt outlets - it should be 13.6 while plugged into AC (may be up to 14.2 if your battery needs a “boost”), 13.2 for a “float” charge, and 12.8 or thereabouts when unplugged, depending on the condition of your house battery. The remote pendant indicates the “mode” the pendant is in.

Here is some more info on the remote pendant: Progressive Dynamics.

Here is what it looks like with the furnace installed:

Here is where I mounted the remote pendant (it is the thing with the silly wizard graphic):

I mounted the unit on the dashboard using INDUSTRIAL Velcro, as well as creating a mounting spot next to the fridge:

There is a remote sending unit that I mounted on the inside “roof” of the fridge (no photo).

The unit uses AAA batteries, and they will last you for MONTHS of 24x7 operation. The unit could use a backlight for nighttime, but I don’t mind the tradeoff for long battery life. It also displays the time and ambient temperature.

The remote connection was “lost” only 3 times during my trip - twice I feel it was due to the iPhone located nearby starting up in the AM. Repairing the connection requires removing the batteries from both units, then installing the batteries FIRST in the receiver, THEN in the remote. This also requires stepping through the menu to set the time and choosing Centigrade or Fahrenheit, but that process is simple.

This should be standard equipment with all fridges.

I purchased a switch, and a short battery cable:

Here are some shots of inside the battery box - it is tight, but it all fits (the small red wires and fuse are for the hitch lighting system, detailed in this article: Trailer Wiring):

Drilled a hole in the battery box, rerouted the positive cable (sealing the new hole I drilled for it), connected the short cable from the battery to the switch, and that was it!

Even if you have no intention of replacing the brackets, you should remove this luggage rack and clean underneath - mine was filthy!

The existing brackets are steel, attached with pop rivets and adhesive - adhesive ONLY on one side of the brackets. On my EVC, one bracket was only in place with pop rivets - the adhesive had failed on the other side.

Go Westy sells a stainless steel bracket replacement kit - this replaces the existing brackets with stainless steel ones, and provides for pop rivet mounting on both sides.

You need to clean the roof very well, drill some holes, seal with silicone, and install some pop rivets.

Two installation tips:

1. There is not a hole drilled in the front bracket for the screw that connects the luggage rack to the front bracket - you will want to drill this hole BEFORE you mount the front bracket to the roof. Just use your old bracket as template for where to drill this hole. Drilling in stainless steel requires a slow drill speed and lots of pressure - you do not want to heat up the steel, you just want to “cut” it with the drill.

2. While drilling the pilot holes for the pop rivets that mount over the headliner, you need to make sure you do not drill too far, or you will drill right through the headliner and into the cab - you can make a drill stop with some fuel line - like so:

Here the roof is all ready for the install:

If you are comfortable working with a gas barbecue, you can do this! Before you work on your fridge, just make sure the propane is OFF, that you are not plugged into “shore” power (AC), that your “house” battery is disconnected, and put out any cigarettes or open flames. Make sure you have some ventilation, too (like the van door open and maybe working in a carport or garage with the door up).

This is not that difficult - just sorta fussy, and you do need to be able to lift and move the fridge. You need the following tools and supplies:

• 2 crescent wrenches (maybe 3, you’ll see why later) or a 13/16, 5/8 and probably a 9/16 (depending on what era your fridge is) open end wrench
• Good Philips screwdriver - make sure you have a good one - some of these screws are tight!
• Compressed air or a “can” of air
• Shop vac
• Round file to modify the mounting flanges in the van to ease reinstallation and later removal
• Permatex 81878 “Ultra Copper” silicone - for resealing the burner box - the existing gasket will fall apart when you remove it - or a new gasket - Norcold part #617977
• If you have never done this, you will likely need a NEW burner - Norcold part #621951
• Soapy water or “gas leak detecting fluid” from a hardware store
• Piece of thin plywood, masonite, cardboard, or similar to protect the van floor

It really helps to set up a “test bench” to test out the fridge before you struggle to put it back. You need a 12 volt source (alarm system battery, motorcycle battery, well filtered power supply, etc) and propane source with a regulator set to 11 inches “water column” pressure, and the correct hose fittings. Just use in a well ventilated area

Here the fridge is ready for removal - almost! Still need to remove the metal above and below the fridge, as well as the door:

I don’t have any pictures of removing the top and side panel, but it is pretty easy: the side panel is held on with 5 screws - remove it and place it on top of your stove cover to hold all the parts. The “instrument” panel is held in with 6 screws - remove those and carefully ease out the panel just a bit - the trickiest bit is removing the AC receptacle. The AC receptacle is held in place similar to a plastic remodel box - unscrew the two screws on the face of the receptacle and 2 “ears” will slowly back off, eventually moving out of the way. You can then slightly tighten the screws back up to hold the “ears” out of the way. Now you can carefully feed the outlet through the panel. NOTE: the 12 volt receptacle positive lead threads onto the 12 volt receptacle.

Here is the top panel, door, and bottom grill removed:

Now you need to go outside and remove the exhaust vent - remove the exhaust vent cover (3 screws), then the 2 screws next to the exhaust vent:

You SHOULD be able to slide the fridge out a bit, and THEN disconnect the gas - depends on just how the gas pipe is supported along the back wall in your van.

Make sure you have some Masonite (tempered hardboard) or cardboard in front of the fridge - the lower pieces of the fridge are sharp, and will mess up your floor. To slide the fridge out, remove the screws on each side of the fridge, and slide it out a few inches. The first inch or so will be difficult, as Winnebago did not leave any room for the screw heads that hold the fridge mounting flanges to the side of the fridge (we will deal with that later).

Now to tackle the gas connection, you need 2 crescent wrenches, like so:

This did not work for me, so I needed another size wrench:

Success! After the excess gas in the lines escapes, tape the end of the gas line and the fitting on the fridge with blue masking tape to keep out any crud. NOTE: IF gas keeps escaping from the disconnected line, you likely have a stuck valve on your propane tank - you will want to take care of that BEFORE proceeding!

Now you can pull the fridge out a bit more.

Unplug the AC:

Disconnect the DC - I marked the colors on the top of the fridge (lousy photo, I know):

Now you can remove it completely - you will need to angle the fridge slightly to get it out - check the photo above to see what I mean. Here the fridge is out of the van:

You need to turn the fridge on its side to get to the burner box. The burner box has a metal shield that needs to be removed first:

Here is the burner box disintegrating gasket:

Remove the gas line to the burner box, again using 2 wrenches and tape the gas line - NOT the fitting to the burner box.

Here is the inside of my burner box - the “corrosion” at the top is really loose particles - you can see how the orifices are blocked on the gas jet.

UPDATE - I strongly suggest REPLACING the existing burner with a new one - the new design is better and if you don’t replace the burner, it will corrode again in a very short time. Norcold part # 621951 - from PDX RV LLC.

Here is how the “stock” burner looks:

Here is the “new” burner:

The “new” burner creates a more “rounded” flame, and the larger orifices are much less likely to clog.

Then I attacked the whole fridge with an air hose, giving special attention to the exhaust vent.

If you don’t replace the gasket with a new one - Norcold part # 617977 PDX RV LLC, you can make one from high-temperature silicone:

Now just put it all back - but before you do, “relieve” the mounting flanges on the van with a round file where the screw heads on the side of the fridge are (I used a sloppier method cause it was getting late). Also, to reconnect the gas fittings, slide back the “nut” and make sure the 2 surfaces “mate” - then slide the nut forward and tighten the connection. Do NOT rely on just tightening the nut to make a good gas connection - it is very easy to cross thread or pinch the soft copper gas line, resulting in a leak (and/or damaged fitting).

Turn on your propane - test the connection using soapy water or “gas leak detecting fluid” (sort of like soap bubbles - you can get it at Home Depot) at the 2 gas fittings and look for bubbles. You will need to leave off the side panel and the instrumentation panel to do this. Turn on your stove to get all the air out of the lines, and to confirm that you have gas flowing. Replace the instrument panel, reconnect the house battery, check the operation of the instrument panel and then test the fridge!

As always, your mileage may vary, these instructions may result in your injury or death, your van may be different, having a high altitude kit (the second vent on the outside of the van) may make this harder, you may bust something on the fridge taking it in or out, etc, etc, etc. No guarantees expressed or implied. That said, I found this much easier than I thought it would be to do!

The trick was just how do I wire this into the Van? As usual, the eurovanupdate list came through (thanks, Paul!). The way I did it was to connect everything on the passenger side - behind the taillight.

Here is what you need:

• “Cold shrink” tape - AKA non-adhesive wire harness tape - can’t remember where I got mine (Eastwood?) but here is a link: Tape
• Super 33 electrical tape - the only electrical tape to buy
• Tie wraps
• Hopkins connector
• Hopkins trailer wiring isolator
• Patience
• Flexible (or small) hands
• Wiring diagram of the taillights

Remove the right taillight (held in with 3 8mm bolts).

Use the cold shrink tape to bundle up all your wires neat and tidy. Run your wiring from the adapter to the taillight, following the route of the existing taillight wiring - attach to this wiring with tie wraps.

Using just the wiring from the 2 Hopkins kits I had, I mounted the power converter outside of the taillight. In later pictures you can see that I tie wrapped the converter out of the way.

Route the wires through the existing taillight grommets and splice into the taillight wiring using the connectors provided in the kit (very nice ScotchLock connectors). Use the tie wraps to take stress off of the connectors, and to tidy your work.

Here is the wiring description - I used all the connections from the 7 pin connector on the van:

7 pin connector at right (passenger’s side) tail lamp:

• Pin 1: (empty - might be for optional right rear fog light)
• Pin 2: Black/Blue stripe - Backup
• Pin 3: Grey/Black stripe - L. Tail via 5-pin
• Pin 4: Black/White stripe - Left Turn via 5-pin
• Pin 5: Black/Red stripe - Stop
• Pin 6: Grey/Red stripe - R. Tail
• Pin 7: Black/Green stripes - Right Turn

5 pin at right tail lamp - feeder to left side:

• Pin 1: Brown/White stripe - Ground
• Pin 2: (? - might be for optional left rear fog light)
• Pin 3: Grey/Black stripe - L. Tail
• Pin 4: Black/White stripe - Left Turn
• Pin 5: Black/Red stripe - Stop

I used the ground stud inside the taillight and connected the power to the “house” battery.

Had Deborah help me test it out (it all worked!) and buttoned it back up. Not too hard, at all!

I bought a few months ago - this was different than any other installations I have done, as it is a “destructive” install - once you do this, there is no going back to the original roof vent. Let me sum this up by saying that in my case, it was REALLY worth the time and trouble to do this. Here is why I wanted to undertake this:

I wanted to improve the ventilation in the van when parked with the top down - I have some cool “armored” cab vents, but having those and a passive roof vent was just not cutting it - especially traveling with a cat. I had heard about the MaxxFan vents for years (integrated rain cover, multi-speed fan, reversible direction fan, etc) and saw that someone had made the install on a , so I decided to try it myself.

Summary:

• You can drive at freeway speeds with the vent open
• You can really cool off the van when parked by using the fan
• You can open and close the vent while driving (the driver can reach the control - just as on the stock vent)
• You can keep the vent open during rain storms

I got the MaxxFan model that does not have a remote control, with the “smoked” cover (to go with the other black bits on the van). You can see the product page here.

Installation consists of:

• Removing the old vent
• Cleaning the old mastic from the pop-top (this takes some time)
• Cutting into your VERY expensive pop-top
• Running 12 volts from the light on the pop-top
• Installing the fan
• Installing a CUSTOM flange for trim ring to set on

How about some photos?

Here is the stock setup from the outside and inside:

Here is what it looks like when you remove the inside trim that holds the vent in place (you just pull up on the fan to release the mastic)

Place a piece of cardboard (like the flat piece that came with the MaxxFan) on the inside of the pop-top, and hold it in place with a piece of wood that fits through the pop-top lift handles - this will keep the inside of the van safe from debris

Now you need to clean off all the mastic- this takes quite some time. I used denatured alcohol, single edge razor blade, and a plastic putty knife - and lots of my favorite clean up towels - Scott blue towels.

Next you want to measure out the area you need to cut, and outline it in blue masking tape

I used my handy Dremel tool to cut through the top layer off the roof, because I was very curious as to exactly how the 3 layers of roof (top, foam, inside) are bonded (or not) together, etc. You can use a Jigsaw with a long blade, or a hacksaw blade with one end wrapped in duct tape. I made the front radius of the corners go right up to the existing molded part on the inside

Then I cut towards the back of the van - I cannot stress enough how freaky it is to be cutting up your fancy van - just have courage, it is worth it! I drilled small holes where the back corners of the vent opening will be - then I used blue masking tape to mark out the cut line on the inside - this way, I can make sure that the hacksaw blade would not “drift”.

Here is a shot of the top, with the Styrofoam core exposed, ready to cut out the interior layer of plastic

Here are shots of the measurements I used

Once you have the hole cut, it is time to mount the exterior mounting flange - per the most current MaxxFan install instructions, I used 3M Silicone 2 as the sealant. Make sure the mounting clips are on the side of the van - NOT the front and back - the mounting clips are where the fan attaches.

Next, you need to lower the fan unit onto the flange - and route the wires to the interior light, where you can tap into the power. Remove your interior light, drill 2 small holes the same size as what was drilled by Winnebago to provide power for that light, then take a stiff piece of wire (12 gauge solid house wire works), tape it to the fan wires with some electrical tape, and “fish” it through. Like so:

Just follow the instructions on wiring, operation, etc.

Now onto the inner trim piece …

First, cut about 2 1/2 inches off the interior trim ring (bezel) with a hacksaw:

If you look closely, you can see that there is a gap on either side:

Here is a closer view:

So another bezel is needed - I made mine out of wood (3/8 inch 5 ply birch that I had laying around), coated with Benite (protects the wood and does not stink). I also did not like the fact that there were only 4 screw holes on the plastic bezel, so I added more - you also need to do this because there is empty space behind the plastic part of the bezel - so some of the screws go into the pop top, and some screws just go into the wood bezel - like so:

You need to add a few washers under the pop top “seat belt” like so:

Here is how it looks on the van from the outside:

Here is some data about the current draw of the MaxxFan I installed:

There are 10 speeds - I had to quit when I got to the limit of my multimeter, which was 2 amps. These are measured with the air EXITING the van, with the vent open. The current draw will change, depending on the load of the motor, so consider these values as approximate.

1. .25 amps
2. .325 amps
3. .45 amps
4. .65 amps
5. .85 amps
6. 1.15 amps
7. 1.45 amps
8. 2 amps
9. rips your toupee off!
10. rips off the seat covers!

Here is where it will go:

I created a cardboard template from the hatch I used - a BOMAR G7711-11 from Pompanette. I made sure that the hatch would fit in the space - the hatch has quite a large “lip” (flange), and takes up almost the entire space - which I wanted (for easy access). I traced out the area to cut.

I then used blue masking tape to further outline the area, and provide a surface to tape the “painters plastic” to (to keep any plastic bits out of the van).

I used a Dremel tool with a plastic cutting attachment (on my drill this is a coarse spiral drill) to cut the plastic. You need to move the Dremel tool back and forth in the cut so that the hot plastic does not “stick”. You might be able to use a hand tool (like a small hacksaw), but the plastic get VERY thin near the bottom - and it is VERY flexible, so that may be a real pain to do - that is why I chose the Dremel. Here is what you get when you cut the hole out:

Now you need to add something to stiffen the opening, and provide a strong surface to screw the hatch down on. I used aluminum flat stock.

Then you just bolt up the hatch - I uses Stainless Steel bolts, as I am a sucker for spending $ at the hardware store….

That really is all there is to it! Now I can easily get to my wheel chocks, hand tools, etc. Here is the hatch closed:

• You need to use the best coffee - Cafe Mam - great people, great coffee, get the “Mocho” blend.
• You need a “Moka” stove top espresso pot - I have found the Bialetti Moka Express to be a great one
• You need to get a “Dosacaffee” - this makes filling your Moka mess-free. They are NOT the easiest things to find.

Here is an image of the Dosacaffee:

Grind up your beans before you leave (I know, fresh grind is better, but you do have to make SOME compromises on the road) - fill your Dosacaffee up, as well as a 1lb empty coffee bag (just pick one up at the local supermarket coffee grinding area). A full Dosacaffee and a 1 lb bag will last 2 people 2 weeks (2 pots per day).

When you are done with the Moka, just lay it in the sink for clean up later (if you in a hurry), or just wait a bit and empty the grounds out when the pot is cool enough to handle. The grounds will be VERY dry, and just a little water is all it takes to clean up. Way easier than using a French Press.

BTW - the best “stumbled upon” coffee experience for us was finding the Kiva Koffeehouse outside of Escalante, Utah - amazing place, great people, good coffee, good food, great local crafts for sale.

I added another post with more details here

Since I did not take any photos during the construction, I will try my best to explain:

• Removed the back seat and frame - this left a gaping hole in the flooring, as well as 4 very large holes in the floor.
• Cut a piece of 3/4 inch birch plywood to fit this gaping hole, countersunk the “stock” bolts into this piece of wood, bolted in to the floor (using silicone around the bolt holes) then sunk 4 brass inserts into this piece of wood - the “new” seat uses these inserts to bolt to, so it COULD be removed if needed.
• Made a box out of 3/4 inch birch plywood, held together with aluminum angle - this will be what the “platform” rests on in the front.
• Cut sections of 3/4 inch birch plywood to form the “platform” - sections are held together with brass piano hinges, allowing the sections to be folded “up” into a bench seat.
• The seat is held in the “up” position with some cool pins.
• The “front” of the bed needs a support - I made one out of scrap plywood - it folds up to fit under the seat.

This allows us to sleep on a bed that is almost as nice as home. The great folks at Soaring Heart Futons set us up with a foam mattress and wool topper that fit just right. We chose a single bed size, for ease of finding sheets, etc.

Ah heck, how about some photos, OK?

I just happened to stumble upon a case at Home Depot:

I have since added some “jam” nuts, so that you cannot remove the turnbuckles without a wrench.

The turnbuckles are Stainless Steel, as are the “S” hooks. The “D” rings are welded zinc plated.

Stays water tight in heavy rain, negatively impacts gas milage only 1-2 MPG, and makes very little noticeable noise. Just make sure that your luggage rack brackets are in good shape!

The list of things we bought to make the curtains (excluding fabric):

• (1) 3112 RECMAR 3112 Plastic Curtain Track - 8 ft. Color: Black
• (4) 3091Y RECMAR 3091 Snap Tape - Yard Color: Black
• (4) 3115 RECMAR 3115 Curtain Track End Cap Color: Black
• (2) 3070 RECMAR 3070 Snap Carrier Color: Black

Everything just screws into place (of course, your mileage may vary!).

BTW - the seat back storage pockets are from the folks at EuroCampers - they don’t seem to be in stock, you may need to ask about them. Here is one vendor in Europe selling them

We have these all over the van now:

We removed the stock upper bunk, including the metal bars that ran across the rear of the bunk - this left 2 unsightly brackets that we covered with cedar 2x2’s. We then cut a piece of 3/4 inch birch plywood to fit, carpeted the top with short pile nylon carpet, then finished the edge with aluminum angle. This provides a great place for Flea to hang out whenever the top is up.

• Fanchers poptop insulation
• 2 awnings - one on each side - Fiamma and ShadyBoy
• Window insulation
• Metal vents for cab windows (similar to these)
• Stowaway2 “swing-away” Cargo Box
• Fiamma 2 bike rack
• Window, sliding door, and rear hatch screens (original accessories)
• Full bra
• GoWesty luggage rack bag
• Front luggage rack box
• Brandrup seat back pockets - available in Europe
• Curt trailer hitch with wiring
• 30 degree propane fill adaptor
• Dash cover
• Cargo area carpet
• Rain deflectors for cab windows
• Tinted cab windows
• Leather wrapped steering wheel
• Propane tank cover (no longer made)
• Heater insect screens
• MaxxAir fan
• External switched 12 volt outlet
• Solar panel input
• Dual 6 volt batteries
• Progressive Dynamics converter/charger
• SeeLevel tank gauges
• Sink faucet with integral pump switch
• LED interior lights
• Larger wood “food cabinet”
• Upper shelf
• Platform bed/rear bench seat with drawers
• Custom edited and bound service manuals
• Victron battery gauge
• Curtains behind driver and passenger seats
• Furnace thermostat
• High altitude fridge kit
• Fridge indicator lights (shows fuse condition and flashes when operating on 12 volts)
• Rear storage hatch
• Wood cover over stove
• Wood table and mini table
• Mice screens over rear vents behind bumper

Photos

This is our 1995 EuroVan Camper, purchased in 2004 from Carter VW in Seattle

We (David and Deborah) used to have a 1966 split window camper that had a wonderful ash interior, that served us well for many years. When we first saw the EuroVan at a RV show in 1995, we could not believe all the gray plastic (and the $35K price tag!). We agreed that even though it had lots of amenities, it was NOT the van for us. Fast forward almost a decade, and as I was driving by Carter VW’s used car lot, I saw this van and thought “I wonder how much they want for these now?”. I was able to trade in our very new SUV for the van - deal!

Of course we could not leave the van stock, with it’s boring gray interior, so…

Accessories and modifications

• Fanchers poptop insulation
• 2 awnings - one on each side - Fiamma and ShadyBoy
• Window insulation
• Metal vents for cab windows (similar to these)
• Stowaway2 “swing-away” Cargo Box
• Fiamma 2 bike rack
• Window, sliding door, and rear hatch screens (original accessories)
• Full bra
• GoWesty luggage rack bag
• Front luggage rack box
• Brandrup seat back pockets - available in Europe
• Curt trailer hitch with wiring
• 30 degree propane fill adaptor
• Dash cover
• Cargo area carpet
• Rain deflectors for cab windows
• Tinted cab windows
• Leather wrapped steering wheel
• Propane tank cover (no longer made)
• Heater insect screens
• MaxxAir fan
• External switched 12 volt outlet
• Solar panel input
• Dual 6 volt batteries
• Progressive Dynamics converter/charger
• SeeLevel tank gauges
• Sink faucet with integral pump switch
• LED interior lights
• Larger wood “food cabinet”
• Upper shelf
• Platform bed/rear bench seat with drawers
• Custom edited and bound service manuals
• Victron battery gauge
• Curtains behind driver and passenger seats
• Furnace thermostat
• High altitude fridge kit
• Fridge indicator lights (shows fuse condition and flashes when operating on 12 volts)
• Rear storage hatch
• Wood cover over stove
• Wood table and mini table
• Mice screens over rear vents behind bumper

Photos

The BEST thing I did after getting our van was to join the “ev_update” Yahoo group (now on Groups.io as “eurovanupdate”) – I wish I knew about it sooner -join now! I have found out so much helpful info, including how to remove/repair the fridge, fix propane issues, photos of modifications, etc. There is a mailing list, files and photos section, etc. Check it out.

If you are in the Pacific Northwest, there is now another Groups.io group – sort of a “spin-off” of the “ev_update” group - NWEVC. The focus is on social events in the Pacific Northwest, travel tips, etc – anything with a regional focus. You can join here.

More Online Resources

The Samba - Probably the oldest VW online forum. You can find some used parts, vehicles, and some interesting posts about modifications and repairs.

Thomas EXOVCDS - an amazing collection of very helpful videos for things like removing your dash, changing a serpentine belt, etc.

VW Vortex - Folks have posted about their TDI conversions here, etc.

Vendors

Eurocampers - some hard to find accessories and supplies for the EuroVan

EuroParts – check their prices – you gotta be kidding, right? Nope – superb prices, great parts, fantastic service.

GoWesty – They have NEW propane tanks, some great kits (like the luggage rack bracket kit), and like most of the vendors – great service!

PDX RV LLC - These guys have LOTS of RV parts - thermostats, “tune-up kits” for your furnace, Norcold parts, etc. Great prices, too.

Spareto - I recently (2021) got a brand new AC condenser for my 95 from an outfit in Estonia: Spareto. This part is listed as NLA in North America. Genuine Nissen part. DHL took only a few days to get here (Seattle). Check them out if you have a need for a part you can’t get - maybe they can get it.

Tru-Line Frame and Wheel – if you are in Seattle, these are THE guys for suspension adjustments, shock installs (if you don’t want to do that yourself) and more.

Other Miscellaneous Links

Rhino Design Studio - They have a center console for the EuroVan for sale